Surfing what it has given me- Travel, languages, My hubby
Surfing what it has given me- Travel, languages, My hubby
This is the one I've been hangin to write all the time.
Surfing has taken me around the world. Found me a hubby. Given me adventure, love , joy and happiness. As it continues to do to this day.
Are you ready for the list of all the places I've surfed at and travelled too. All those great memories are going to come through and I'll just jot them in as they come:
USA- California-
San Diego,
Trestles (came second in a surf contest there),
Carlsbad,
Huntington,
Newport,
Imperial beach (was a lifeguard at the kids summer camp- all those illegal Mexicans jogging in tracksuits when its boiling hot. They had just illegally crossed the border searching for the great American dream and a chance at a better life. Felt like I was in a movie "coming to America" with Cheech and Chong so funny worth renting.
Mexico- Baja California (crossing the border going through immigration scary, too many horror stories- but I never had a problem).
Hawaii- Oahu Maui
Costa Rica - Pavones- the best left rivermouth I've ever surfed. (shady one hour boat trip. Camping at the point. Not enough money living on fruit I found coconuts and bananas. Yes I know how to open a coconut with rocks. Yes I do speak Spanish now- too many countries with good surf had to learn it. Its essential to be able to communicate and find the best waves.
Peru- Punta Rockas (cold, lobos de mar -dugongs. They give you a fright they stick their dog -like noses in the air- but they are quite cute. They are really big so I just paddled away. Maybe they bite?)
Brazil
Sao Paolo- Guaraja
Rio
Santa Catarina- Guarda Do Embau, Floripa.
Bahia- Itacare, (there are times when Corais break awesome wave. All on reef/rocks.)
Won lots of surfing contest here.
Lived here for 1.5 years. Met my hubby here. Taught English.
Yes I speak Portugese also. Learnt Capoeira here. Lots of Gorgeous beaches everwhere.
Salvador
Europe
France- Hossegor, Barritz, Anglet. Good powerful beach break.
Spain- San Sebastion -cute town with a little cove beach.
Santander - Lived here for 1 year,taught English. Great fun cosmopolitan city. Lots to do. Had to catch a ferry to get to the surf. Loved it. Too cold in winter.
Portugal - desert with nice people and waves.
Canary Islands- Lanzaroti. Volcanic Desert - no trees. Scary reef break waves. Some beachies. Lived here for 2 months.
Indonesia Bali- Bingin, Padang, Ulawatu, Kuta Reef. Chung gu.
Lembogan
Sumbawa- Possibly some of the most amazing stretch of surf rights and lefts I've ever in-counted- you can walk to them all. Periscopes wow what a right hander tubes. All the surfers staying at the surf camps were like animals in a zoo. Bus loads of Indonesian tourists would just come and stare at us -weird. 2 day giant ferry ride to get here, then over land to the tip of the island. Adventure at its finest, Would not do it again too many bombings.
Lived here for 2 months taught surfing.
Thats all I can remember for now, will post more as they come.
Love those waves. See you out there. Salty
This is the one I've been hangin to write all the time.
Surfing has taken me around the world. Found me a hubby. Given me adventure, love , joy and happiness. As it continues to do to this day.
Are you ready for the list of all the places I've surfed at and travelled too. All those great memories are going to come through and I'll just jot them in as they come:
USA- California-
San Diego,
Trestles (came second in a surf contest there),
Carlsbad,
Huntington,
Newport,
Imperial beach (was a lifeguard at the kids summer camp- all those illegal Mexicans jogging in tracksuits when its boiling hot. They had just illegally crossed the border searching for the great American dream and a chance at a better life. Felt like I was in a movie "coming to America" with Cheech and Chong so funny worth renting.
Mexico- Baja California (crossing the border going through immigration scary, too many horror stories- but I never had a problem).
Hawaii- Oahu Maui
Costa Rica - Pavones- the best left rivermouth I've ever surfed. (shady one hour boat trip. Camping at the point. Not enough money living on fruit I found coconuts and bananas. Yes I know how to open a coconut with rocks. Yes I do speak Spanish now- too many countries with good surf had to learn it. Its essential to be able to communicate and find the best waves.
Peru- Punta Rockas (cold, lobos de mar -dugongs. They give you a fright they stick their dog -like noses in the air- but they are quite cute. They are really big so I just paddled away. Maybe they bite?)
Brazil
Sao Paolo- Guaraja
Rio
Santa Catarina- Guarda Do Embau, Floripa.
Bahia- Itacare, (there are times when Corais break awesome wave. All on reef/rocks.)
Won lots of surfing contest here.
Lived here for 1.5 years. Met my hubby here. Taught English.
Yes I speak Portugese also. Learnt Capoeira here. Lots of Gorgeous beaches everwhere.
Salvador
Europe
France- Hossegor, Barritz, Anglet. Good powerful beach break.
Spain- San Sebastion -cute town with a little cove beach.
Santander - Lived here for 1 year,taught English. Great fun cosmopolitan city. Lots to do. Had to catch a ferry to get to the surf. Loved it. Too cold in winter.
Portugal - desert with nice people and waves.
Canary Islands- Lanzaroti. Volcanic Desert - no trees. Scary reef break waves. Some beachies. Lived here for 2 months.
Indonesia Bali- Bingin, Padang, Ulawatu, Kuta Reef. Chung gu.
Lembogan
Sumbawa- Possibly some of the most amazing stretch of surf rights and lefts I've ever in-counted- you can walk to them all. Periscopes wow what a right hander tubes. All the surfers staying at the surf camps were like animals in a zoo. Bus loads of Indonesian tourists would just come and stare at us -weird. 2 day giant ferry ride to get here, then over land to the tip of the island. Adventure at its finest, Would not do it again too many bombings.
Lived here for 2 months taught surfing.
Thats all I can remember for now, will post more as they come.
Love those waves. See you out there. Salty
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