How I started surfing.
I always loved the beach, we grew at Bondi Beach Sydney Australia. That famous little clam shaped cove. I had to walk over a hill for about 10 minutes then I was there. My first surfing devise was a surf mat, you know what they are, they are back in again. Everything old is new again.
That feeling of the cool refreshing ocean on a hot day- wow. Then to get the adrenaline rush of a wave- wahoo! Next came the boogie board /body board. faster more control on the wave. I could go out of the flagged area and surf were those scary fiber glass boards were. "Oh I'll never surf on one of those, they can hurt if I fall off".
When I was 15 years old, my brother who loved break dancing at the time, (he would go basking with his ghetto blaster in the city outside the movies) got a Mark Richards Twin fin surfboard. It must be great it had 2 fins instead of 1. So I had a go! First I learned to kneel, about 6 months it took me. Thats why lessons for surfing are the best thing. You learn to stand up on the first day! So I wasted 6 months learning to kneel. Didn't know any better,there were no lessons back then. Then finally I got to stand up. I could only stay on the inside on the whitewash. I dreamt of the day I could go out the back and blend in just like the other surfers.
Back then hardly any girls surfed at all. They assumed that a girl surfing must be gay. So I actually got teased for doing what I loved. I persisted I was hooked on finding those uncrowded waves. I always loved winter at Bondi because this is when you could surf anywhere on the beach, not just outside of the flags on the southern end. You could escape the crowds and find a wave. Also choppy days were great for the same reason- waves breaking everywhere, a chance to get a wave to yourself.
Every weekend I'd say,
"Dad can we go to the beach?" He would say after WWF (World Federation Wrestling)that was midday. I wold go crazy until then.
Passion , love, Happiness, Joy thats what surfing has given me.
Peace is found with sand between my toes and waves in my eyes.
Can't wait to go surfing today today with Surfing Mums. See you at The Alley.
Do you know why its called The Alley?
Originally it was called Shark Alley. You know the place where the river mouth meets the ocean. Let me assure I have never seen any sharks there. Although I have seen sharks just around the corner at Palm Beach. It was one afternoon all the school kids were out. I saw a fin, I thought you are not taking my waves. All the kids saw it noone left the water. There weren't any attacks back then. The fin belonging to a shark started to circle me. That was it I paddled as fast as I could to reach the shore. Sharky was sizing me up to see if I was food. Now even if I see a dolphin, I'm straight out of the water, until I'm sure its safe.
Now I take surfers revenge -I eat shark. Our favourite fish is flake (that is shark). See you out there!
That feeling of the cool refreshing ocean on a hot day- wow. Then to get the adrenaline rush of a wave- wahoo! Next came the boogie board /body board. faster more control on the wave. I could go out of the flagged area and surf were those scary fiber glass boards were. "Oh I'll never surf on one of those, they can hurt if I fall off".
When I was 15 years old, my brother who loved break dancing at the time, (he would go basking with his ghetto blaster in the city outside the movies) got a Mark Richards Twin fin surfboard. It must be great it had 2 fins instead of 1. So I had a go! First I learned to kneel, about 6 months it took me. Thats why lessons for surfing are the best thing. You learn to stand up on the first day! So I wasted 6 months learning to kneel. Didn't know any better,there were no lessons back then. Then finally I got to stand up. I could only stay on the inside on the whitewash. I dreamt of the day I could go out the back and blend in just like the other surfers.
Back then hardly any girls surfed at all. They assumed that a girl surfing must be gay. So I actually got teased for doing what I loved. I persisted I was hooked on finding those uncrowded waves. I always loved winter at Bondi because this is when you could surf anywhere on the beach, not just outside of the flags on the southern end. You could escape the crowds and find a wave. Also choppy days were great for the same reason- waves breaking everywhere, a chance to get a wave to yourself.
Every weekend I'd say,
"Dad can we go to the beach?" He would say after WWF (World Federation Wrestling)that was midday. I wold go crazy until then.
Passion , love, Happiness, Joy thats what surfing has given me.
Peace is found with sand between my toes and waves in my eyes.
Can't wait to go surfing today today with Surfing Mums. See you at The Alley.
Do you know why its called The Alley?
Originally it was called Shark Alley. You know the place where the river mouth meets the ocean. Let me assure I have never seen any sharks there. Although I have seen sharks just around the corner at Palm Beach. It was one afternoon all the school kids were out. I saw a fin, I thought you are not taking my waves. All the kids saw it noone left the water. There weren't any attacks back then. The fin belonging to a shark started to circle me. That was it I paddled as fast as I could to reach the shore. Sharky was sizing me up to see if I was food. Now even if I see a dolphin, I'm straight out of the water, until I'm sure its safe.
Now I take surfers revenge -I eat shark. Our favourite fish is flake (that is shark). See you out there!
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