The Best wave of my life, it took 30 years.
I am a water baby. From the age of 15 yars I have been surfing on a fibreglass surfboard. Before that it was boogie boards and surf mats. Thats over 25 years of surfing. On Xmas 2011 a really large swell came to the Gold Coast. It was rough and unrideable for a few days. Then it happened it glasses off and became smooth and perfect. It was still at least double or triple overhead in size. I saw this huge wave come in at the top of Snapper rocks and I paddled my heart out hoping to get one just for me. It was super crowded as usual, but you can still get waves as the waves are so good. I tookoff on this wave; the whitewater was huge. I got up and looked and on the inside was another surfer, my heart sank, thinking I have to get off. I actually spoke to him and said "Oh you are there" he fell off. What, I couldn't believe my luck! So I am surfing the biggest glassiest wave of my life. I am doing a few turns and cutbacks and working my wave as far as I can go. Well...