How I started surfing.
I always loved the beach, we grew at Bondi Beach Sydney Australia. That famous little clam shaped cove. I had to walk over a hill for about 10 minutes then I was there. My first surfing devise was a surf mat, you know what they are, they are back in again. Everything old is new again. That feeling of the cool refreshing ocean on a hot day- wow. Then to get the adrenaline rush of a wave- wahoo! Next came the boogie board /body board. faster more control on the wave. I could go out of the flagged area and surf were those scary fiber glass boards were. "Oh I'll never surf on one of those, they can hurt if I fall off". When I was 15 years old, my brother who loved break dancing at the time, (he would go basking with his ghetto blaster in the city outside the movies) got a Mark Richards Twin fin surfboard. It must be great it had 2 fins instead of 1. So I had a go! First I learned to kneel, about 6 months it took me. Thats why lessons for surfing are the best thing. You l...