The Best wave of my life, it took 30 years.






I am a water Kiss baby. From the age of 15 yars I have been surfing on a fibreglass surfboard. Before that it was boogie boards and surf mats. Thats over 25 years of surfing. On Xmas 2011 a really large swell came to the Gold Coast. It was rough and unrideable for a few days. Then it happened it glasses off and became smooth and perfect. It was still at least double or triple overhead in size. I saw this huge wave come in at the top of Snapper rocks and I paddled my heart out hoping to get one just for me.

 It was super crowded as usual, but you can still get waves as the waves are so good. I tookoff on this wave; the whitewater was huge. I got up and looked and on the inside was another surfer, my heart sank, thinking I have to get off. I actually spoke to him and said "Oh you are there" he fell off. What, I couldn't believe my luck!


So I am surfing the biggest glassiest wave of my life. I am doing a few turns and cutbacks and working my wave as far as I can go. Well this wave wasn't any ordinary wave. It just kept going- starting at Snapper all through Rainbow Bay and past the Big Greenmount Point. It fianlly ended 3 beaches later at Coolangatta beach. I just was in shock, it was so exhilerating. The BEST wave of my life. Sheer pumping adrenalin. This inspirational wave reminds me to always keep trying to get that perfect wave and never give. This is the same with goals in life, to stick with them and keep trying. It took me over 30 years to catch that wave. I hope the next one will come quicker.


Snapper Rocks Pictures and Photos:

'via Blog this'

Love that Ocean! See you out in the surf! SALTY.surfergirlgoldcoast.blogspot.com/

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